Surfboards, kayaks and other water equipment can be rented on the beach (between Margarita’s & Ruperto’s restaurants), along with surf lessons.
There is usually always surf at the beach in front of town and when there is a good swell you’ll get a nice left break in front of La Terrazola Restaurant, just three minutes walk from the house.
You can walk to other beaches, unseen from ours. Playa de los Muertos (Beach of the Dead) is usually gentler water. Walk past the hotel Villa Amor, then take the pathway (cutting off the point) past the cemetery, and you arrive in a couple of minutes. In the other direction, a path from the end of our road (Calle Palmar) leads through the woods to fairly deserted beaches to the north, and ultimately all the way to San Pancho.
Most visitors never leave town during their stay in Sayulita, as it is paradise with plenty of things to do right in town, including surfing, swimming, horseback riding (on beach or through jungle), hiking, fishing and just relaxing. However, some find the time to take day trips, and three of my favorites are below.
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Fishing
This requires only leaving in a boat, the 18 foot pangas used by the local fishermen. If anyone in the group likes to fish, talk to Nacho at the El Costeño restaurant on the beach, as he has fished here his whole life, and will take up to six others out on his panga, for 1400 pesos (about US$125) total regardless of number of people, usually leaving at 7am, returning by 11am, to fish for dorado, which is mahi-mahi. He rarely fails, and afterwards he will fillet the fish for you, so you can BBQ (or get a cook to do so) that evening either at home, or they will do it for you at the restaurant. You can count the number of English words Nacho knows on your fingers, but that never stops anyone from having a great time. He has the rods and everything, so no need to bring anything but sunscreen, hat and a small water bottle. You generally leave from the beach down past Don Pedro’s, but make sure you agree in advance on time and place, and have one of the English speaking waiters help translate when arranging if necessary.
Snorkeling
Anyone with even the slightest interest in snorkeling should spend a morning at the Islas Marietas, where decades ago Jacques Cousteau filmed one of his diving specials. This set of islands is uninhabited by people, but has thousands of birds, including the blue footed booby found only in these parts and in the Galapagos, and the surrounding coral is teeming with colorful fish. Leave Sayulita by 9am either in auto or get Lalo, Agustín or another of the dependable Sayulita taxistas to take you the roughly 20 minute drive to Punta de Mita. You can arrange a taxi the day before at the house (2 blocks from our complexes) with TAXI written on the side, or Janet can help arrange if you need that. You can take the highway back toward PV, and after about 6 miles you see the right hand exit for Punta de Mita, just where the highway turns from 2 to 4 lanes, then continue on that road until you enter the town of Punta de Mita, a trip totalling about half an hour from Sayulita. Or take the direct shortcut road (double dotted in the map below), if conditions are good, a touch shorter. In 2005 they have been working on improving (actually paving) much of the shortcut road, so by the next year it may be the best route all year round. Punta de Mita is small, with only one beach area, so it would be hard to get lost.
At the beach ask for Oscar (pronounced O-skar) if he doesn’t find you first, and he will provide snorkels, masks, fins and the boat with pilot (up to 9 of you in one boat, and he has a couple more boats if needed) for the price of 200 pesos (about US$18) per person. If you are running short on pesos, Oscar is always happy to take a twenty dollar bill instead of 200 pesos, as then he makes a bit extra! Before you leave the beach, ask Pedro, a wonderful waiter in one of the couple of beachfront restaurants, to prepare an ice container with one drink (soda or water recommended, beer if you really want it) per person, as it will be delicious on your way back. The drinks are about a buck a piece, and you can pay Pedro when you return to shore. Your boat is an 18 foot wooden panga with outboard, the only boats in small fishing villages, and most likely Alejandro (Alex) or Toby will be the driver, who will stay with you the entire time. Most of the boat has a cloth overhead cover for shade, but those wanting sun can sit uncovered in the very front. After the 10 – 15 minute boat ride out to the islands, Alex will anchor the boat in the best spots, so anyone who tires or does not want to snorkel can still come along and stay on the boat. An hour and a half of snorkeling generally sates everyone, then Alex or Toby will take you on a quick spin around the islands as you return. If you leave Sayulita by 9am or so, you are at the islands by 10am and back just about noon. The trip to and from the islands can also be great, as at different times we have seen sea turtles, dolphins, whales and even a school of manta rays, each one 6 to 10 feet across gliding just under the surface. Even if not so lucky, there will be beautiful birds flying past. So feel free to bring along those who do not want to snorkel, as they will enjoy the boat.
Anyone who feels like it should put a life vest (they are in the boat) under the belly while snorkeling, as this is common and makes you float easily. Advise beginners that they really need to snorkel right near the edges of the island, right over the coral rather than 50 feet out where it is deep, as fish stay in the coral. Sometimes they are afraid to get to close to the “cliffs” but they really need to be there. Be sure people have sun screen on their backs, as it is easy to forget about that when your tummy & face are in the water. Also, please do not take anything back with you, and try not to touch the coral as it is delicate. There also are spots with sea urchins clinging to the coral, and these guys can sting if you touch them.
All you need to take is a towel if you wish, though feel free to take a backpack or other carryall, and a camera would be nice. Bring cash, as credit cards are not used in Punta de Mita. It is customary to tip the boat driver 100 – 200 pesos, the high end if he provided special help or service.
We always stay and eat in Pedro’s restaurant, looking right out at the beach, enjoying their great seafood (or burgers and other fare for those who need that) and drinks. When we are without car, we ask our taxi driver to return for us at about 1:15 and find us in one of the couple of beachfront restaurants, and they always are there on time. Then we are home in Sayulita before 2pm, with most of the afternoon still ahead of us.
In the map above, Sayulita is just off of highway #200, exactly 26 miles NW of the Puerto Vallarta airport. When going to snorkel the Marietas, you drive to Punta de Mita, which is the town on the far northern end of the large bay (Bahia de Banderas) in which Puerto Vallarta sits. Go either by the highway (going back toward PV, then taking the Punta de Mita exit), or now they have improved the local road, which is the double dotted line in the map, so it is quicker.
Do NOT try to take a boat from Sayulita to the Marietas. Some of the Sayulita boatmen will tell you it is fine to do that, but even in the best circumstances it takes a couple hours (those pangas are not too fast), and if the wind is against you, one of the directions may take much longer, and frequently they do not even make it and have to turn back. I love being on boats, but spending 3 or 4 hours round trip travel just to get there is way too much.
To arrange trips, ask the local taxi drivers Lalo or Augustín Hernandez (291-3059), Marcelino (291-3122), talk to Papa’s Palapas, call the San Pancho cab driver Pedro at 322-728-8483 (his cell) who speaks English well and knows of special places you might like to visit, or to arrange something in advance from home e-mail local driver Jose at marijoseramos@yahoo.com.mx
San Cristobal Estuary (with crocs) at San Blas
Also on the map above is the route to another great destination, the fabulous San Critobal estuary, where you take a boat up a river system half covered by mangrove, seeing crocodiles, hundreds of beautiful white egrets and if you are lucky also families of tajones (cross between monkey and raccoon) living in the trees. This trip requires a drive to the town of San Blas, about sixty miles north but taking about two hours each way since you go through a few small towns along the way, so is not great for youngsters who cannot tolerate the drive. Again, leave Sayulita by 9am, as morning is best on the river. If taking one of our dependable local Sayulita taxi drivers, he will know the way, but it will likely cost you about US$100 for him, as it will take most of his day. If driving, head north on highway #200, go through La Peñita (the first stop light you encounter) and continue until you reach Las Varas, which is about 40 minutes from Sayulita. There you will turn left onto highway #161, and that intersection has a stop light. This is one of those tricky Mexican turns, where in order to turn left you need be in the “service lane” which is on the far right, and you needed to get into it about one block prior to the intersection, so if you see that you missed #161, turn around and get it!! This road is now smaller, and it will take you through the cute town of Zacualpán, where you might think “I’m lost” but just stay on the main road as it curves through town. Or stop here (maybe on the way back) and explore the town. Follow all signs to San Blas, and eventually you go through a couple little beach towns and come to San Blas.
There are two very important considerations for best enjoyment of the river trip, and the San Blas map below helps with these.
First, most people board at the Los Aguadas landing, which has a nice little parking lot & restaurant. Do NOT do this. Even if your taxi driver says “this is where you get the boat” tell him NO. Instead continue into San Blas. When you cross the bridge over the river right as you enter town, you will see remnants of the older bridge below. Then take the first left, and again take an immediate left, and go to the little EL CONCHAL landing. Get out of the car and within a minute or two someone will come to you. You want to embark here as the lower part of the river has many of the best parts.
Even more important is your choice between two destinations. By far the better is Tovara Spring, a beautiful freshwater lagoon with little cafe at the side. Do NOT go to the Cocodrilario! The boat trip costs very little, about US$5 per person, and again you take a panga, the 18 foot wooden boat with outboard, and these are outfitted with four benches so can take up to 12 people per boat. The trip up the river takes about an hour, and then stay at the lagoon, eat lunch (or at least have beers) at the cafe, and your boat driver will either nap in the boat or talk with the cafe workers until you decide to head back. Bring your cameras for the boat trip, and remember to either wear or bring along swimsuits, as the lagoon is a fantastic spot to take a dip. Stay as long as you like at Tovara, then enjoy the trip back to El Conchal, and if you are interested, take a spin through the town of San Blas before you depart.
Of course there are other day trips in the region, ranging from canopy tours to scuba to volcano to old mining towns, so whatever your pleasure you can find things. Or just enjoy the small town of Sayulita!
If you want to visit Puerto Vallarta, the following links provide PV tourist info:
VallartaToday Vallarta-info Vallartaonline